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Section: Food
Torches Burns Brightly on Kenmore Ave.
Story and photos by Anthony Chabala
When you dine out as often as I do, you know when you have something special on the plate before you. Torches, located at 1141 Kenmore Avenue in Buffalo, provides that bit of plate magic, and an incredible atmosphere, to boot. The food is priced exactly as it should be — not cheap, but no major hit to the wallet.
Part of what’s so exciting about dining at a restaurant like Torches is the modern flare, which comes across in furniture and décor that is hip and stylish.
The service is also top notch. The specials and menu items are explained in great detail, and if asked, qualified recommendations can be offered. The wine list is quite extensive, and Torches also offers a well-stocked, beautiful bar.
The first night my wife and I dined at Torches, we started our meal with a delicious amuse bouche, a special treat from the chef: a crispy wanton cup overflowing with a grilled pork and Waldorf salad. In a word, delicious.
For another starter, we enjoyed a lovely Caprese salad, fresh mozzarella and ripe vine tomatoes stacked high with quality extra virgin olive oil and Balsamic vinegar.
My wife ordered the “Nickel City Mac ’N Cheese,” the perfect blend of mom’s homemade mac ’n cheese with bleu cheese, sun dried tomatoes and strips of golden battered chicken, all topped with Frank’s red hot sauce. My New York strip steak served on a bed of garlicky fries was just as brilliant.
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Torches regulars Jim Yelland and Alice Robinson.
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Part of the Torches experience is meeting some regulars, folks like Jim Yelland and Alice Robinson. Instead of reading the menu, Jim and Alice have enough confidence and faith in Torches quality to politely say, “Please just bring me a meal.”
Jim, a world traveler, proudly exclaims, “You can’t get a bad meal in Buffalo — it’s the greatest eating city in North America.” Alice, his dining companion, shares equal enthusiasm for the Queen City’s cuisine, and even more for Torches’ Chilean sea bass.
Locally owned and operated by brothers and chefs JJ and Kevin Richert, the food and atmosphere at Torches exudes a professionalism and experience that you would associate with establishments that have been serving for decades.
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