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Buffalo Spree Publishing
website by OtherWisz
Archives - back issues

September 2006
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Section: Travel

A Tasty Weekend
By Colleen Maroney Fahey


We were all looking for something different this year. Last summer’s choice, the Outer Banks, while beautiful, was book-ended by two long days in an airport terminal. Not the stress-free goal of our annual summer getaway. There are eight of us, all born in Buffalo — two have moved away — Jane to Albany and Susie further still, to Elizabeth City, North Carolina. Six of us met in the schoolyard of grammar school almost 50 years ago; our newer acquaintances, Rosanne and Susie, came along in the early high school years.

Arbor House
Arbor House.
Photo by Colleen Maroney Fahey.
TWe decided on Skaneateles, located halfway between Buffalo and Albany (an easy drive for everyone) the farthest of the Finger Lakes, just before Syracuse. Having spent an afternoon many years before in this quaint little town we knew that it was just the place for a relaxing long weekend of talking, shopping, eating, and catching up. And did I mention laughing? From our collective inability to read a MapQuest or a sale tag at the town furrier, to our endless comparisons of nature’s and gravity’s cruel jokes on our figures and mental state, these three-day getaways are remembered most for the uncontrollable laughter punctuating our time together. Skaneateles was the perfect backdrop for our festive party.

Jo Ann found the perfect location for our stay: the Arbor House Inn & Suites at 41 Fennell Street, an elegant 1850 inn with a recently remodeled barn featuring luxurious antique-filled rooms, complete with fireplaces and Jacuzzis. We occupied the top floor, sharing two rooms with massive baths, a porch overlooking the gardens, and a very handy hallway refrigerator — we arrived very well stocked for the weekend. Reopened under new management just two years ago, the rooms, all named after a particular wine (ours were Riesling and Merlot), were well- appointed, spacious and spotless. A full complimentary breakfast featuring homemade waffles and pancakes, scones, breads, quiches, and tortes was included in the price. Served in the elegant dining room of the restored inn, the breakfast was a relaxing way to start the day and set the culinary tone for our stay.

Mirbeau Inn
Mirbeau Inn.
Photo by Colleen Maroney Fahey.
Aside from its beautiful lakeside views, the small town charm of its quaint village and its many shops, Skaneateles boasts some of the region’s best restaurants — from dock-side causal to “big-city” elegance. It is no wonder that a visit here is described as a “sensory experience.”

Upon arrival we walked up one street to the village center for lunch at the Bluewater Grill, 11 West Genesee Street, situated on the lake adjacent to the village park and dock. This is definitely the best view in town whether sitting in the glass enclosed dining areas or on their spacious outdoor deck. The Bluewater offers a full selection of luncheon choices with generous portions at a reasonable price. The salads are particularly impressive. Right next door is the Sweetwater Café, an old-fashioned ice cream store and bakery, owned by the same people as Bluewater and KaBuki, a highly acclaimed sushi bar across the street. All three are open seven days a week for lunch and dinner.

That evening we decided to pamper ourselves with the Mirbeau experience. We dined at Giverny, Mirbeau Inn & Spa’s award-winning restaurant under the direction of Chef Edward Moro. With beamed ceilings and Provençal-style table settings, the dining area overlooks a beautiful Monet-inspired garden complete with tiered ponds and a replica of the bridge at Giverny. The menu notes that Chef Moro has taken “an impressionistic approach to the culinary arts — carefully creating a ‘palette’ of taste to reflect and enhance the seasonal flavors of the local harvest.” With a very small amount of convincing we all opted for the five-course tasting menu at $64 (the four-course, sans cheese course, is $59). Each course of the menu offers four selections to choose from; however, if the idea of a tasting menu is too daunting, each course can be ordered à la carte. Giverny also offers an extensive wine menu from the affordable to the ridiculous, with a good selection of wines by the glass.

Bluewater Grill
A view from the Bluewater Grill.
Photo by Colleen Maroney Fahey.
For the first course I selected the sashimi but Kathy’s choice of the cured smoked salmon with potato crisps, curry, crème fraiche, and salad seemed a more interesting appetizer. For the second course most of us chose the pan seared scallops with wasabi mashed potatoes and roasted red pepper cilantro nage. Had I been home, I surely would have licked the plate. For the third course or entrée, I thoroughly enjoyed every morsel of the butter braised Maine lobster with a summer pea risotto, even if the lobster was a tad mushy. Anne Marie experienced the only true disappointment in the menu as her tenderloin was overdone and dry. She later reflected that it should have been sent back — but we’re a polite group.

The cheese course was the perfect interlude, one that called for another bottle of wine, which fortified us for dessert. Small “gifts” from the chef appeared throughout the meal, including a tasting of potato and leek soup, a clam casino, and right before dessert, still warm Madelines, nestled in a linen napkin, which could easily have served as dessert, but then we would have missed out on the mood-altering warm chocolate cake with bourbon ice cream and toasted walnuts.

For most people, this would probably be their last meal for the week, but being a hardy lot, we set out the next day to exercise, to shop, and most of all, to sail around the clear blue Skaneateles Lake. Evening found us at the famous Rosalie’s Cucina which is a must-stop destination for visiting celebrities, who write their name on the walls for charity, enjoy authentic Tuscan cuisine, and rub elbows with tourists and townies alike. If you happen to stop by, go around in back to check out their vineyard, bakery, and wine cellar.

Down the street from the Arbor House is Creekside Books & Coffee, a sleek, independent bookstore and full-service coffeehouse. The weekend we visited, Creekside was hosting a lecture and book signing by Patricia Schultz, author of 1,000 Places To See Before You Die. Surely, Skaneateles must be on her list.



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