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August 2007
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Section: Food
Comfort Food, Fat Bob's Style
By Pat Donovan
Like you, I sometimes I dine on tofu, miso, spelt, yams and other Dalai Lama foods that, prepared in a variety of tasty ways and given half a chance, would keep me trim, healthy and spiritually aligned, with blood pressure and cholesterol counts so low I could count ‘em on one hand with the other tucked into the pocket of my wee skort.
But there are days when I am drawn back in time by the siren smell of critters slow roastin’ over a Texas smoker. That’s when I chuck the squid-in-its-own-ink and head to Fat Bob’s Smokehouse for a plate of meat I can gum slow-cooked, sticky, chewy, succulent Memphis pulled pork (on a soft white hamburger roll or not), Texas brisket, St. Louis ribs, smoked chicken and turkey, catfish … Listen, we’re all going to die of something, and I say let it be something greasy.
Fat Bob’s sandwiches and entrees come with your choice of one or more fattening sides (additional sides are $1.50 each). These include mac and cheese (best in the city), baked beans (sleep alone), sweet-potato fries, collard greens, cornbread, hushpuppies, potato salad, cole slaw, mashed potatoes and sausage gravy. In other words, there’s lotsa starch to fill y’up in case you brung in a bad crop this year.
The pulled pork and other sandwiches are a good deal at $6.95-$9.95 (which includes one side). They are delicious delicious and come in both the Texan and southern versions. Either way, grab a beer, wear a bib and chow down like you’re at a roadside place in South Carolina.
For those wearing their good clothes, there are the neater options of the cornmeal-fried rock shrimp with Cajun mayo, Texas chili, fire-seasoned gumbo, catfish fingers with dill tartar sauce, and the “perfectly cooked” blackened catfish ($16.95). There are salmon, steak and burgers, too, but that’s not what you’re here for, is it?
The catfish got two thumbs up from Companion One, a well-traveled gourmand who likes catfish so much she carries one in her purse. Companion Two gobbled up a three-meat combo plate ($20.50) with a big greasy smile on his face (I was paying). Drink-wise, he recommends the Cosmopolitan over the Blue Hawaiian. In any case, they certainly sent him on his way.
Bob’s excellent beer menu features everything from Blue Light to Belgian whitbeer, although to my taste, most of the menu calls for one of the restaurant’s heartier brews.
Fat Bob’s is tucked into 41 Virginia Street, off Allen Street one block east of Delaware Avenue. It’s casual and although it can get crowded and noisy, especially during its popular happy hour, no reservations are accepted except for parties of five and more. It doesn’t have the lowest barbeque prices around, but there are still bargains to be had, and its neighborliness, dart boards, pool tables, TVs and live entertainment on the weekends go along way to recommend it to old dart freaks and pool sharks.
The “Baby Fats” menu for the grand kids (all items $5.95) offers choices perfect for the little ones but is too dull for kids over age six. The patio out back isn’t much in the looks department but is comfortable and expands the dining space.
Parking is better than it used to be since a lot across from the place has become available to diners. This will be very good news to anyone familiar with Virginia Place, as well as anyone with arthritis or a bum knee.
Fat Bob's Smokehouse
41 Virginia Place, Buffalo
887-2971
Open:
Mon-Thu 11:30am-12am
Fri 11:30am- 1am
Sat 3:30pm- 1am
Sun 3:30pm-12am
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