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 August 2005 Back to Table of Contents Back to Archives Main Page Section: Feature Romancing the Food:Festival and Fair Fare By Nancy Eckerson
And so, it was no shock to me that everyone I interviewed in preparation for this article went straight for the meat of the matter. Some reactions were sweet, some sour, and some just savored the memories, but without exception, every person I questioned became enchanted with the subject matter of food at the fair. I was delighted to watch as their gazes glazed over, and they waxed poetic about everything from Birch Beer to Blooming Onions. “I must get fried dough and taffy,” says Naomi Yaw of Lancaster, “Not the salt water taffy, but the taffy sticks. It reminds me of my childhood. My dad used to buy it; now I buy it and always bring him some.” The lure of festivals and fairs is certainly tied up in our fascination with food. Only the rare person responded with recollections of booths and activities first. Our memories are linked to the aromas and textures of summer fare at the fair. And there are also very exact specifications for their culinary cravings. The taffy must be sticks, not salt water. The candy apples with cinnamon are best. Fried dough has to have powdered sugar, or it is nothing, say some, while others won’t even touch the delightful sweet without a generous coating of cinnamon sugar. The Buffalo wings have to be 5-alarm, and the beef on weck must have just the right amount of au jus on the bun. We’re fussy. It’s got to be just right, or don’t bother, seems to be the prevalent thought. “The steak dinners at the Erie County Fair are my favorite. And you have to have a salad and a baked potato with it,” says Helen Kraatz of Akron, a Fair-goer for the past 70 years. At the mention of the Erie County Fair, I repeatedly watched as interviewees would enter a trance-like state as they were transported to another time and place. The land of taste buds and nasal nostalgia brought broad smiles to their faces. Whether it was last summer or a summer 40 years ago, the effect was the same when it came to the mention of food — everyone entertained those wistful musings about their past food loves. I would say that most everyone I know has had a romance with at least one special summer food. And many of us actually speak “food” in order to give directions at the fair. “Hey, Joanne, have you seen Mike here today?” “You bet, I just saw him by the cotton candy,” answers Joanne. “Okay son, you and your pals can walk alone for a bit, but check with us at two o’clock, right here at the popcorn,” says Dad. Directions are food-oriented, memories are food-related and expectations are food-centered for most festival fans. “I can’t wait to taste those Italian sausages with peppers and onions,” says Laura Neary of Akron, NY. Laura’s enthusiasm for the County Fair is very obvious in her charismatic description of her favorites:the yummy curly fries with vinegar, the warm kettle corn and the ice cold birch beer that beckon her. Rachel Hervy of Buffalo, reminded me of the entertainment aspect of fair food with her delightful description of cinnamon taffy. “It’s so chewy. It’s fun to eat.” Hmm, do we see a trend here? Cinnamon seems to have become the festival and fair aphrodisiac. Cinnamon and sugar fried dough, cinnamon candy apples, cinnamon taffy? Color is yet another key factor. “I’ll take cotton candy, Mommy!” I overheard a conversation at a Fourth of July Fair. “What color honey?” “Blue! I love the blue,” said her son. What happened to flavors? We don’t even pretend to have flavors or relate these cravings to real fruits and vegetables, instead we go for color. Oh, how about a snow cone? Care for red or white? Let’s talk nutrition now. I found one safe bet: fresh squeezed lemonade. At least that sounds safe. If you don’t watch as they add a cup of sugar to the healthy citrus squeezings. Okay, let’s forget nutrition and get back to the real core of the matter: candy apples. How about the great protein boost you get from a hot dog with kraut? There’s a vegetable in there, I think. And aren’t French fries potatoes? And aren’t potatoes a vegetable? They grow in the ground, right? Isn’t that where carrots grow? So they must be related! If you truly want to be ecology-conscious, there is my newest favorite cooking craze at the local fairs — Taco-in-a-Bag. Actually, most single men have probably been doing this in private for years, to avoid washing dishes. But now, added to the water conservation issue, there is the added benefit to our environment of using Doritos bags as bowls. Honestly, this tangy little treat made my taste buds dance. Crush the Doritos in the bag, open it up and scoop in mounds of taco meat, cheese, and lettuce, then pour in some salsa and spoon a dollop of sour cream on top. Grab a fork and there you have it — a taco dinner fit for a king. And what festival and fair food article would be complete without smatterings of ice cream cones and novelties? Romance and ice cream? Have you ever shared a root beer float with your lover? It’s heavenly! And how many crushes have been born while spooning the frozen concoction out of the milkshake glass? You’ll know it’s real love when you consent to sharing an ice cream cone. So, if life has become a little boring, and you need a spark to get the old fires burning again, try the festivals and fairs. The romance is there to be savored, along with the food!
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