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July 2007
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Section: Food
Espresso Yourself!
By Annemarie Jason
When you walk along Lovejoy Street in Buffalo, it looks like an ordinary street lined with little bars, pizza joints and other small businesses. But there’s a new surprise. For those who want to see the future, there’s a gypsy woman waiting in the window at Madame Mocha’s Espresso Pub & Tearoom. There, you can get professional tarot and tea leaf readings, along with some great food and drink. Proprietors Paul Gipp and Monica St. Laurent have created a comfortable place where customers feel welcome. Fair trade organic coffees and teas are served exclusively, but without the price and pretention that afflict so many coffeehouses. There’s a very ‘70s feel here, not only because it’s kind of funky and fun. It’s because of the worldview, too. The owners have a serious commitment to fair trade purchases that respect the faraway coffee and tea growers who keep our mugs full. It also means you can kick back and enjoy live acoustic music on Thursday and Saturday evenings, when you might want to order some Bully Hill wine as a different beverage option. There are discounts for seniors, but also a special menu and monthly tea parties for kids. So you can bring your grandchild and enjoy a capuccino while junior rips into a fluffernutter. For groups, readings, tea or wine and cheese parties are available too.
Tea drinkers may choose from imported black, green, decaf or chai by the cup or pot. Frappes, fruit smoothies and Italian sodas provide something on the cool side. Coffee selections feature a house brew that may be served French pressed by the pot. Chocolate or caramel sauces may be added, along with a choice of sugar-free or regular Italian flavor shots. Cafe de cocoa, espresso, latte, capuccino, Americano and breve are classic offerings. But Madame Mocha recommends that you try her namesake a shot of espresso with steamed milk, chocolate sauce and whipped cream.
When my friend and I visited, we could have had a salad or soup, but we were hungry enough to want more. From an interesting assortment of grilled panini, my friend ordered the Vardo, which was a delicious combination of chicken breast, fresh baby spinach, Asiago cheese and smoked tomato dressing on thick seasoned focaccia bread. The Italian style potato salad provided a light, tasty take on a standard side dish. I had some of the best bruschetta ever. The menu noted that in season, fried cardoon patties are served, so I vowed to return to sample this wonderful Italian specialty. I must also try the “Madame Ravyn,” one of the wraps that are served cold or grilled. This one has field greens, herbs, Portobello mushrooms, Roma tomato, cucumber, dried cranberries, pecans and feta with a balsamic vinaigrette dressing.
For the needy sweet tooth, there were homemade muffins and pecan brownies. But oh, were we lucky! The Goddess of Sfingi was doing her magic thing that night and we got to eat her freshly made sfingi, a light Italian “doughnut” of sorts. It’s almost like a cream puff and sometimes filled with cream. The goddess would not reveal her secrets, but did say that she uses an old family recipe. When she makes her next batch of cannoli, I’m going to be there too. I’m betting that her magical powers have no limit!
You can stop in for a cup while hooked up to free wireless internet or do some searching for the real news inside your tea leaves.Whatever else she may see, Madame Mocha surely predicts a livelier future for the Lovejoy neighborhood.
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