Doll’s dress made from flour sack fabric. Private Collection.

Textiles appeal to many collectors who enjoy the novelty prints and fine fabrics that are no longer produced today.
 - Kristie Dobbins

Gail Nicholson: Did you curate the current Bodice to Bed exhibition?

Kristie Dobbins: I curated the Bodice to Bed show with the intention of showing how fabric was recycled from clothing and everyday objects into both show and utility quilts. The exhibit features 13 quilts positioned with clothing objects showcasing similar fabrics. The exhibit is divided into sections showcasing fabrics such as velvet, silk, wool, paisley prints and even flour sacks and cigar silks. Even men's ties and shirt fabric can be found recycled into the exhibited quilts.

GN: How did you choose which to include?

KD: The process of putting an exhibit together takes many months. First a theme and subjects are selected. Then, after careful research, objects are identified that correspond to each subject. First we selected the quilts and then set out to match the fabrics seen in the quilts to other objects in the collection. We also sought out additional loaned quilts from the community that reflected the theme of the exhibit. Lastly, all the objects had to be cleaned and prepared for exhibition.

GN: Why do you think someone would be interested in collecting fabric?

KD: Textiles are some of the most personal objects owned by an individual. From examining a dress you can learn someone's approximate age, size, social standing, personal style and sometimes even their occupation. We select clothing that expresses who we are. By learning to “read” historic garments and textiles, you can learn about who wore and made them.

Textiles appeal to many collectors who enjoy the novelty prints and fine fabrics that are no longer produced today. Clothing today is disposable, while historic clothing and textiles were made to last many seasons. “Out of style” clothing was often remade and updated to extend the life of a garment. Often fine handwork and exemplary sewing skills  are showcased in textiles. These skills are rapidly fading in today's society.

While textiles may be something desired by collectors, they are by far the most difficult objects to preserve. Most textiles are made from plant or animal fibers and thus will continue to break down over time. They are very susceptible to light and insect damage. Often a well-meaning person who tosses a historic garment or quilt into a washing machine is disappointed when the item comes out in tatters or with running colors. To prevent damage like this, the Amherst Museum provides pamphlets and information on preserving, storing and displaying historic textiles in your home. A few basic measures can prolong the life of a treasured textile for years to come.  

GN: What’s a favorite piece of yours at the museum?

KD: The museum has a collection of approximately 10,000 textile objects. We have several rare 18th and 19th century pieces, but the collection is strongest in 20th century materials. We have the largest collection of 20th century clothing and accessories in Western New York, and a nationally recognized collection of wedding gowns.

Our footwear collection is also well known, and was featured in the calendar Shoes: Four Centuries of Footwear that was sold in bookstores nationwide in 2005.

I do not have a favorite piece. There are simply too many wonder examples to choose from. We carefully select our collection based on condition, style and of course its relevancy to Western New York history. As a result we have a large but fine collection of textiles that were originally purchased and used here in Western New York.

GN: Do you collect on your own? Purchase for the museum?

KD: The museum collection relies completely on artifact donations. We do not have a budget for acquisitions. All object donations are tax deductible as we are a non-profit organization.

I do not actively collect anymore. I simply have run out of closet space! Additionally, it would be a conflict of interest for me to seek out objects that would be in direct competition with the museum's mission. The Amherst Museum collects objects related to the Niagara Frontier, with particular focus on the Town of Amherst.

GN: Can someone bring in pieces for your appraisal?

KD: I am happy to help identify and date textiles brought to the museum by the general public.  I am not a certified appraiser and thus I am unable to provide a monetary value for textile objects. However, once a textile is identified I can refer people to a local appraiser that specializes in that kind of object.GN: Is there always a textile exhibit at the museum?

KD: There is a designated textile gallery in the museum with exhibits changing annually. Currently there are two textile exhibitions at the museum Bodice to Bed: The Fabric of Clothing and Quilts and Wedding Belles: The Fashionable Bride 1840-1990.

GN: Thank you.

Amherst Museum, 3755 Tonawanda Creek Rd., Amherst, NY, 689-1440, www.amherstmuseum.org

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