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April 2005
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Section: Food
Spring Fresh
By Annemarie Jason
As crocuses and snowdrops poke their brave heads up through the cold earth, we can smile because a little bit of spring has finally sprung. A transformation from drab to delightful occurs as buds on branches start to open up. But in Buffalo, another kind of opening happens every spring when Guercio & Sons takes its fresh produce out onto the sidewalk on Grant Street. Guercio’s open-air market has been in business since 1961, when Vincent and Nancy Guercio first offered customers locally grown fruits, vegetables and Italian specialty foods. Today, the family business is kept alive and thriving by the five Guercio brothers and a team that includes many nieces and nephews.
Sam Guercio is responsible for choosing the tempting array of fresh produce available year-round. He says that fresh-picked items are moved from store to sidewalk once the weather warms up, usually sometime in May. Around October, when it gets too cold, produce is taken back indoors. But whenever folks see those awnings and umbrellas opened up, they know that the sidewalk market is offering its bounty. In Spring, that means local asparagus, swiss chard, sweet peas, fave beans, dandelions, cardoons and early zucchini. Piles of good-for-you food are constantly being replenished as shoppers fill their baskets with delicious possibilities. The diversity of the crowd explains why this part of town is called an “international marketplace.” And for the globally-known sweet tooth, there may even be some early strawberries or raspberries, along with fruits that have arrived from warmer places.
One of the tastiest Spring vegetables is fresh asparagus. When purchasing, look for spears that are not too hard or woody and don’t overcook them! This author’s early experiences with soggy asparagus resulted in years of shunning a vegetable that can be heavenly when cooked just until it’s a beautiful green with a bit of crunch. It can be steamed lightly and served with butter, hollandaise sauce or soy sauce with sesame oil. Arrange cooked asparagus on a platter with rolled-up ham slices and hard-boiled eggs as appetizers or drizzle olive oil over asparagus spears and grill. Try a Russian-style dressing as a dip or squeeze a little lemon over the vegetables, adding salt and pepper to taste.
Fresh peas with pasta is a classic Italian dish that’s easy to put together once you’ve shelled the peas! Saute chopped onion (or garlic) in olive oil, adding a bit of tomato paste if you wish. Steam the peas until just cooked (not too soft) and boil small shells, macaroni or ditalini in salted water. Toss together, salt and pepper to taste and serve with grated Parmesan or Romano cheese. For a light dessert, some of those fresh berries are excellent just as they are. Add a dollop of sweetened whipped cream or yogurt, close your eyes and say YUM!
Open year-round, Guercio’s indoor shop is chock-full of everything from peppers and pineapples to prosciutto and provolone as well as oil-cured olives, caponata and fresh mozzarella. Locally-made products include biscotti, frozen tortellini, ravioli and cannoli, plus fragrant rolls and breads delivered daily. Guercio’s even carries its own brand of spaghetti sauces and salad dressings plus a wide assortment of Italian imports. Among these are oils, pasta, peppers, beans, sauces, spices and wonderful antipasto treats. So the next time you’re ready to go out in that fresh Spring air, take a walk or a ride to Guercio’s, where there’s something fresh on the inside and the outside. Guercio’s is located at 250 Grant Street between Lafayette and West Delavan. Call: 882-7935.
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